I think I only actually mentioned this on the blog in passing on Monday, but we’ve just been to Copenhagen! We’re flying back today, I thought I’d share some of my iPhone snaps and a few thoughts. If you’re interested in any picture in particular, have a look on instagram, they’re all there with captions.
It’s a great, great city. Very relaxed and lots of nice old buildings and parks. It helped that the weather was lovely, about 18-20 degrees, so warm but not hot and no rain. The flat we stayed in (which was just as beautiful as the pictures suggested) was a bit out of the way, in Fredriksberg, a mostly residential area with lots of shops and cafes etc. We did tons of walking! Obviously having Milo we didn’t cram nearly as many activities into our days as we might have done before, lots of stopping in parks and playgrounds to let him have a run around when he was getting a bit restless. But actually it was kind of nice not to do too much. We do get up at 6am due to our toddler alarm clock every day now, so we need lots of relaxation breaks. We stayed for 6 nights, which was perfect for the pace we were going at, but if you were going without kids, 3-4 days is probably enough to see all the main areas.
I’ve taken quite a lot of proper camera pictures, so will say a bit more about what we got up to when I share those, but here’s just a few highlights:
- Museums: Designmuseum Danmark for iconic furniture and interiors (mainly chairs actually) design from the 8th century onwards. There were two special exhibitions, one on domestic storage in history, and one on midcentury stuff from Hans Wegner, who I’d never heard of before but is obviously very famous here as lots of shops had reproductions and orginals
- Food: Buffet brunch at Mother, Pancakes at Kalaset, cinammon pastries from Myers Bagerri
- Parks: The Botanical Gardens are gorgeous!
- Shopping: We didn’t do too much so as not to be tempted, plus I’ve lost my appetite for clothes shopping. But we did pass lots of great looking windows on our wanders. My recommendations are both interiors based: Designer Zoo stocking small things from lots of independent designers, and Illums Bollighus, a massive interiors department store. We also visited a lovely fleamarket on Ravnsborggade, where there are lots of antique shops that set up stalls outside, plus random individuals selling car boot type stuff. It’s only quarterly though so we were lucky!
Plus some random thoughts on what we saw out and about:
- I cannot understand Danish at all. I can sort of work out what’s going on with written stuff because of German, but I seriously cannot catch anything at all when people are talking, there’s no gaps between words! If I’m being honest, I did expect to understand more than I did because of having watched Borgen, the Killing and the Bridge, where I can hear individual words. But without the subtitles, nothing.
- There were a lot of parents about, especially in Fredriksberg, and 90% of all babies/toddlers were in these huge Victorian style prams. Even kids Milo’s age, who would just sit up in the pram. A very strange fashion! To be fair despite their tank-like size, the prams didn’t cause any trouble, as most shops were wide enough to accommodate them, and the metro was really accessible too, but I definitely still preferred having our more agile buggy.
- Stuff wasn’t quite as expensive as I expected, which was mainly due to expecting everything to be extortionate, after what people had been telling me. Because we stayed in at night, we did buy a lot of stuff in supermarkets, which was about the same as at home, and the lunches and cakes we had out were only slightly more expensive. Drinks are really expensive though, non alcoholic ones too. £4-£4,50 was the going rate for a latte, which is a bit mad! And they charge for tap water, not insignificant amounts either!
- I’ve never been totally sold on the need to put cycle lanes everywhere, it seems a bit of an unnecessary expense when you’ve got perfectly good roads already there, but I can see the point now. The scale of cycle use is really something else, and they bikes have their very own traffic system, which works wonderfully. We didn’t get bikes as we had the buggy for Milo and it’s easier to discover and navigate a new city on foot than on a bike, but it did look brilliant fun. Everything is flat, so bikes just have three gears, and people cyle in their normal clothes without helmets, often while holding conversations!