For my birthday, and in light of my me mad may reflections, I bought myself a seamwork subscription. This is the first thing I made, the Akita blouse. I love the exaggerated shape of the shoulders, even though the effect is not so visible on me, given my giant arms.
I’ve decided I’m never even going to attempt making anything without fitting adjustments again, what’s the point of sewing if you’re just gonna recreate rtw. The top is a size 8, with a substantial fba (I’m coming round to the idea that I do actually have a large chest. Some pictures of myself I look at myself and I can’t help thinking whoa boobs!) graded out to a 12 (because of the added width from the fba) at the front, and a 14 at the back. It could probably do with an extra couple of cms round the hips anyway, so I’ll add that next time.
The fabric is a cheapo flower print (£1/metre!) I got at Edinburgh Fabrics when they were have a sew Saturday sale. It seems to be good quality though, been washed a few times and is holding up well so far. I had 1.5 metres and I needed it all. This is my main gripe about this pattern, fabric efficient it is not. The patterns description is all ‘you can get this out of just 2 yards’ like that is in any way impressive. It’s a short sleeved top, for gods sake, I struggle to think how it would be physically possible to use more than 1.8 metres for one of those! You can get a scout and an onyx out of a metre no problem, and a sleeveless onyx out of about 70cms. The reason it uses so much fabric is because it is just one super long pattern piece. It needs a lot of length, but not width, I actually have enough of this fabric left over for another top, but then who needs two identical tops? If anyone is in a similar situation and would like to do a swap, shout! I have actually seen a person who has made a few of these and has just cut the pattern piece up, in which case you could get it out of 75cms, but then you do of course have a seam on the shoulder, which somewhat ruins the lines of this.
The other thing about this top is that it uses a lot of bias tape, more than one pack. Which is fine if you make it yourself but at this stage of my sewing career I prefer to chuck money at the problem and just buy it. Colette do seem to like finishing things with bias tape, and I’m actually not quite sure this really needs quite as much as it does. It’s got tape running down the entire length of the side seam on the inside, which makes it easy to do the armholes and the slit at the bottom (as well as looking nice and neat inside, but I still reckon you could do this with just ordinary seaming on the inside). Oh, and I did also depart from the instructions a little. It has you encasing the seams in bias binding, and I did try to do that, but my binding had no crease in the middle and was quite thin, and it just proved so annoying that I gave up and just folded the tape to the inside. (Which incidentally, is also what I intend to do should I ever make another Sorbetto) Apart from losing a tiny bit of widths, I can see no negative effects. Apart from that, the instructions seemed fine although I didn’t read them all, I’ve done the bias bound neckline so many times on various onyxes that I just did what I always do. It’s nice that I’ve got the experience how to not have to be handheld all the way!
That’s all I’ve got for this pattern! Definitely like it and planning at least one more.